Friday, May 29, 2009

how to make the best mamas ( the most important step you will ever make)

this med-man master kush will provide more then enough pollen for crossing and storage for later. this male plant reeks!!!!! thank you adam of th seeds:) this strain is by far one of the best medicines i and my coharts have had a chance to experience.
the 2 large plants in the back are ricky simson aka bc diesel. named after one of canadas only "real" freedom fighters, ricky simpson has cured hundreds of canadians from every kind of cancer with his own hemp oil grown in his back yard on the east coast of canada. watch his video "run from the cure" on you tube for all his natural healing info and story. go ricky!!!!

these are moms or cuttings from moms used over the last year. here stand the 3rd breeding cycle. there is ricky simpsons aka bc deisel, pure la kush, pure purple kush, pain killer, purple pain killer, mk ultra, white boy, white widow, island sweet skunk, green giants, afgahni kush, kryptonite, afgooey and pepe le pue. all of these outrages lines will now be crossed with the super mk ultra, imagine the crosses which will be created!!!

this is a med-man master kush, not needed for the mother room, is placed outside with all my old moms in mid summer to cross pollinate all the other supermom genetics in the great outdoors the way nature intended. the pollen may also be stored indefinitely for future breeding. this specimens genetics are meant to be kept alive, it actaully smells stronger then the med-man master kush kept inside, its also twice as big which is normal for male plants.

this is a beautiful med-man master kush, superior to her sisters and brothers, this is the plant you want to keep for clone production. its dense internodes, compact growth, dark green leaves and extreme aroma(over the rest respectfully) make it a champion mother specimen. sitting next to it is an orange crush "keeper" female as well, if you can see how compact and vigorus she looks too. below too the left are 10 of the soon to be legendary c99 seedlings awaiting more firm culling from the author.

once your strain "comes of age" they should automatically show sex at the intersection of a side branch/leaf stem/mainstock. females show a tiny "raindrop" flower with 1 or 2 white hairs coming out of its apex(top). forcing flowering or increase vegitive dark periods will also force plants to show sex if you are in a rush. discard the males or keep 1 if you can for breeding, which is what i do with my mother cycling:) keep the healthiest,most vigorus, stinkiest, sturdiest female and flower or throw away or breed the plants which dont qualify for your mother space.

step 5- when the seedlings are vigorus and pop thru the bottoms of pucks, transplant them into the medium best suited for your situation, in this case, my favorite 3" stonewool cubes with holes fit the pucks perfectly. the 5 far right are the med-man master kush, the 3 in the middle are the g13 crosses and the 3 on the left are cali orange:) they will need stronger light and 1/2 strength fertilizer now. i like these cubes because plants can easily be grown up to 24 inches if properly maintained. its best to use just enough grow medium at every stage of growth because you never know which plants will make it to the final mother room. ei- dont start 100 seeds in 100 20 gal containers. its baby steps with seeds or you are wasting, time/money and work. all my med-man master kush have sprouted and grown equaly with vigor, so when they start growing, they all made it to the 3".

step 4- once seeds crack thru the shell, i like using 100% organic and eco freindly coco coir pellets(pucks) to sprout the little seedlings. soak the pellets in 1 litre water, 3ml b-52, 2ml hyox, 85 degrees F, ph 6.0-7.0. all 5 mk ultra( at the back of this tray) cracked within 24 hours and were placed tap root down into the coco pucks about 1/2 an inch beneath the surface. other great mediums to sprout seeds are peat pucks and sunshine mix/pro mix. within 48 hrs of soaking the seeds , all popped through the pucks to meet the light and start growing. master tip- alot of seeds suffocate themselves sprouting 2 ways: 1-the seeds are too hard to crack 2- a layer of "skin" or the embryonic sack that holds the plant in the seed doesnt come off with the shell and stunts or kills the seedling. to resolve this matter , remove shell and "skin" once they break the surface to give them the advantage they need to survive. the g13 diesel and gigabud sprouted another 12 hours later:) the 3 other seedlings are cali orange:)

step 3- germination- in 1 litre of water, add 2ml of 30% hydrogen peroxide and 3 ml pf b-52.
place seeds in the solution and place in a warmer area ie- above a fridge, on a heat mat etc... here are my 5 coveted med-man master kush seeds they should start cracking in 12-72 hrs, depending on variety and freshness.

step 2- getting the seed-. seeds are legal in canada, but i prefer to buy direct from the breeder if possible for these reasons: its cheaper, they send you free stuff, the seeds will be the freshest, the genes are guaranteed, the mail is the safest form of deliver. if mail order doesnt work for you and you live in bc, go to vancouver seeds bank or kind seed co for some of canadas and hollands best varieties. pictured below are 1 g13 diesel, 1 g13 gigabud, 1 g13 purple lady and 2 g13 quicksilver.

step 1- finding the genes- research as much as you can thru photos books, seeds banks, the web and personal stories from growers to find the seed that best suites your needs. all masters will usually go to amsterdam because you can smoke the bud, see the plant growing and talk to the breeders who designed the gene line. taste, high, look, smell, medical quality, price, quality, flowering time, height, your grow space and resources will all help you determine your choice.maple ridge kush is one of my top ten strains( and all other smokers i know) due to the fact that no matter how much you smoke you cannot get immune, the high is a heavy head and body stone, it smells like a skunks ass and tastes like the canadian tundra( pine cones). a truely medical miracle. on the streets outside of the medical community, this strain fetches 250-300 and ounce, for a reason, and thats in canada, the indoor bud capital of the world:)


  1. hey med man. i am currently in week 3 flower and just noticed i have a pest problem. nasty spider mites! i have given them 2 20 min c02 baths in two days. i was wondering if you ever had these problems and what would be the best method to take care of the prob. my temp is average 79-81 degrees fahrenheit. there is a little bit of algee on some of the rockwools and there were some dead leaves from the 4 t 5's. i 'm not sure if that's what may have caused this? thanks

  2. typically in vancouver and greater area we battle powdery mildew all winter because of the wet,cool conditions(and the fact most growers buy commercial clones that have been cloned from clone over hundreds if not thousands of generations which degrades the plants immune system). and in the summer, growers battle spider mites and thrips. bugs thrive in the summer heat because that is when the critters would naturally be alive mating and flourishing outdoors.

    prevention: always bug bomb your space every 1-3 months, always miticide(neem oil) babies in a bath by submerging them completely no matter where they came from, keep temps no hotter then 75 day temp, alwys wear gloves working with plants and materials, always wash your hands before and after gardening, between crops heat space to 100F-125F for 1hr with a co2 generator connected to a thermostat in between crops, dont allow outside air in, cool bulbs with outside air coming sealed in and sealed exhuasted, spray every 5-10 days with a natural pesticide.always wear clean clothes to work in grow space, remove dead, dieing or weak plants or plant material from your space.

    treatment:"do not use more then one of these treatments within 24hrs of eachother": raise c02 ppm to 10,000 for at least an hour during the dark cycle( can be repeated nightly), fog/mist/spray/bomb plants and grow space with miticide, burn sulpher during the dark period(last resort), spray the plants with 50/50 solution of pirhana/tarantula, keep temp no hotter then 75F, filter your intake air, buy predetory nematodes and or predator bugs( try this before any other drastic measures are made), if the plants are small dip them in no wilt from advanced nutrients to coat bugs and eggs in deadly(to them) plastic film.

    its better to keep the rockwool in the dark at all times, the green algea is caused by exposre to light, is virtualy harmless, but should not be welcome in your space.

  3. where ya been medicineman? please stay in touch more with this blog i dont think u realize your importance.....

  4. hey medman.... i was about to root some clones in a 50 gallon fish fishtank and was just wondering if i used the original florecent from the tank if that would work. the babies would be proped up to about 4inches from the light. i have 21 babies. i think the light is a 38watts 120v. or should i be using a t5 sunblaster? thanks for all the help.

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  7. if you are just rooting clones, little light is needed, its when they root they need brighter light

  8. Hey there Medicine man I am new to this venture I have recently purchased The Producer and would very much like some information on a strain that would work well in the box. Thank you for your time.

  9. One more question I am wondering if I should invest in a few more t-5 lights. The Producer came with two that will be placed on the bottom. I am wondering if I should install one per side wall or perhaps a third light on the bottom. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

  10. strains- all "sea of green" strains work awesome:most varieties will produce one long cola with no or little vegetative time.

    i would just add 4 t5 to the bottom, but if you wanna add to the sides, make sure the plants dont burn physycally from touching them and watch to not let it get too hot in there with the addition of more lights.